RC-Hangout

Part 1 - Is this hobby for you?
Introduction
Getting started
The entry helicopter
The simulator approach
Your chosen path

Part 2 - Flying a helicopter
Safety
The controls
Modes
Throttle
Rudder
Elevator
Aileron
The first flight
Trimming

Part 3 - Some technical insight
Two extra channels
Pitch
Fixed pitch vs. Collective pitch
Gyro
Flying a CP helicopter

This guide is primarily for those curious about the hobby which consists of flying remote controlled helicopters. The guide is based on my own personal opinions and advice, which can be subject for debate among other seasoned hobbyists. I recommend aspiring pilots and beginners to read at least part 1, if not the entire guide before diving into this great hobby.

Part 1 - Is this hobby for you?

• Introduction
• Getting started
• The entry helicopter
• The simulator approach
• Your chosen path

Introduction

For me, the greatest positive about this hobby is how rewarding it is. The reward being the feeling of accomplishment you get when mastering the helicopter. The same feeling is also present when building the models; finishing a scratch build, completeing repairs or making your model work properly.

You should also know that the RC-helicopter hobby comes bundled with tasks such as repairs, building and configuration. I'm not trying to scare you away from the hobby, just know that there is a lot more to learn than just flying the helicopter.

Then there is the financial aspect. If you find the hobby to your liking, you'll soon find that it's not the cheapest of hobbies. You may enter the hobby at relatively low cost – and this is also my recommendation. Do not invest to heavily in the beginning, this might discourage your interest later on.

Getting started

There are many ways into this hobby. A lot of people have small toy helicopters and want to get something larger, more spectacular. A few may have witnessed a large helicopter perform jaw dropping acrobatics and want to pursue ownership of such a toy for themselves.

At this point, careful choices will have to be made. Many find the controls very hard to master at first, and this is where many fall off the hobby. They purchase too large and/or complicated models, crash them over and over until they are completely demoralised – and in such a manner, quit the hobby.



The entry helicopter

To avoid taking on too steep a learning curve, the correct beginner model must be chosen. By beginner model I do not mean one of those small, cheap toy helicopters – I presume you already own one of those.

Your first proper heli must be a 4-channel one. We'll look into what the channels represent and what they do later on, just make sure you get a 4-channel helicopter. Below is a illustration showing how a 4-channel transmitter works.

If you have one of those small toy helicopters, you'll notice the controls are quite different.



Making sure your heli is a 4-channel is not enough, you must also choose the correct rotor configuration. You should avoid getting a double rotor, these are the models equipped with four rotor blades. Your new model should have only two rotor blades and a flybar. A flybar is a rod with a weight on both ends.



The above example is the Nine Eagles Solo Pro 228, my first model. In my opinion this is a perfect beginner model; It is bigger than most of the cheap toy helis, it comes bundled with a transmitter, a charger and all the equipment needed, it can take a few punches without needing repairs and it comes with two difficulty settings.

A 4 channel helicopter is also called a fixed-pitch helicopter, meaning that lift is generated by throttle only – more on this later on.

Before running off and buying your first helicopter, please read the next paragraph!

The simulator approach

If you can resist buying the entry heli a while longer and feel you are fully committed to getting into the RC-helicopter hobby, you can invest in a proper radio and a RC-simulator. This is obviously a boring approach to the whole hobby, as you will not get to fly an actual RC-heli just yet, but you will learn to fly.

What is a simulator?

A simulator is a program you can install on a computer, which then is controlled using a transmitter plugged into the computer. On screen you can choose to fly a variety of models, helicopters as well as airplanes and multirotors (drones). The controls are set up exactly like in the real world, which makes the simulator a perfect tool for beginners and experts alike.

Screenshot from PhoenixRC simulator:



In my opinion there are three simulators worth getting; Phoenix RC, RealFlight and AccuRC. All these support plugging in your own transmitter – yes, that's right, you may unplug the transmitter and go out flying your real models with the same transmitter! In my opinion, training with the same transmitter as you use out on the field is very important. You get a feel for the sticks and also learn where all the switches are placed.

Sadly, buying a transmitter and a proper simulator is not cheap. A Spektrum DX6i transmitter bundled with the Phoenix RC simulator program can cost you $220, but in most cases you will get a simulator sooner or later anyway.

I should mention that you can get a simulator with a dummy transmitter. This is a cheaper alternative than getting a real transmitter – but in my opinion the experience you get from setting up and learning the layout on a real transmitter is very valuable.

No matter which of the two alternatives you choose; getting a beginner model, or getting a simulator, you will learn to fly a helicopter.

The chosen path

If you choose to go with the 4-channel entry heli, then learn to fly it very well, you can go on to buying a more advanced model and a proper transmitter. But still - you should consider getting a simulator before moving on.

If you choose to go with a proper transmitter and put down some serious time with a simulator, you can just skip the 4-channel entry heli and buy a larger and more advanced model.

Part 2 - Flying a helicopter

• Safety
• The controls
• Modes
• Throttle
• Rudder
• Elevator
• Aileron
• The first flight
• Trimming

Notice! If you are learning to fly, but have a 6-channel helicopter (e.g. 450 size or larger), I advise not to attempt your first flight before reading part 3 as well as part 2.

Safety

Remote controlled helicopters are dangerous no matter what size they are. Even the tiniest helicopter can potentially blind someone (or yourself) if you are really unfortunate. Once the models start growing in size, so does the potential damage they can inflict on the pilot, bystanders or property. RC-Helicopters must be respected and should not be treated as toys. Recent years there have been incidents where people actually lost their lives while flying RC-Helicopters.

• Read the instruction manuals
• Respect the safety precautions provided by the instruction manuals
• If you are not properly prepared to operate a RC-helicopter - then don't do it!

The controls

Below I will explain how the controls work. Have a look at the transmitter to the right in the video to see the sticks being moved. Notice how gentle the movement of the sticks are and watch how the helicopter responds. When operating these controls, there should be no sudden moves on the sticks, this will only cause disaster!

Modes

The function of the sticks might vary from country to country. In Europe and America the most common layout used is "mode 2". On mode 2, the left stick controls throttle and rudder, and the right stick controls forwards and sideways movement. There are 4 modes in total - but this guide will use mode 2 as standard.

Throttle

Throttle enables the helicopter to lift off, ascend and descend.

The throttle starts and stops the motor which in turn starts and stops the main rotor. The throttle is controlled by the left stick on the radio with vertical movement; at the lowest position there is no throttle, and at the top position there is full throttle. Throttle should be applied VERY carefully. Pay attention to the left stick's vertical movement.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AfUJpA44chM

Rudder

Rudder enables the helicopter to turn left or right.

The rudder controls tail movement. When using rudder, the tail spins around the main rotor - it can go clockwise or counter clockwise. Rudder is also controlled by the left stick, but with horizontal movement. Tilting the stick left turns the helicopters nose left, tilting the stick right turns the helicopters nose right. Pay attention to the left stick's horizontal movement.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7JFIoBjcYBY

Elevator

Elevator enables the helicopter to move forwards or backwards.

The elevator controls forward and backwards tilt. Elevator is controlled by the right stick with vertical movement. Tilting the stick forwards will tilt the helicopter forwards - tilting the stick backwards will tilt the helicopter backwards. Pay attention to the right stick's vertical movement.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lj7d13kj974

Aileron

Aileron enables the helicopter to move sideways, left or right.

The aileron controls left or right tilt. Aileron is controlled by the right stick with horizontal movement. Tilting the stick left will tilt the helicopter left - tilting the stick right will tilt the helicopter right. Pay attention to the right stick's horizontal movement.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=govb9Vg8EKo

The first flight

If you acquired the 4-channel helicopter, you might be ready to give it a try. Like I said earlier, most 4-channels come with everything you need and are ready to fly right out of the box (battery probably needs charging). Usually they are not as sensitive on the sticks as the model I use in my videos - but make sure to move the sticks very gently.

If you acquired a simulator and transmitter (or a dummy transmitter was included with your sim), you want to set up your radio and simulator for the first flight. Seeing that your model is a virtual one, you do not have to be so careful with the sticks - but remember, taking the sim seriously will only help you become a better pilot faster.

The first thing you will have to master is the hover. Make no mistake, hovering looks easy but needs a lot of practice! Learn the list below before attempting your first hover:

• SAFETY! Model helicopters are dangerous with blades spinning at high speeds - stand at a safe distance.
• Before touching the throttle, make sure the helicopters nose is pointing away from you.
• When hovering, make sure not to use the rudder - keep the nose pointing away.
• If the nose starts to turn, make sure to land and start over.
• Very gently increase the throttle - get a feel for it without taking off.
• When the helicopter is about to take off, do some small jumps with it - without taking off.
• When you are ready to get some air, do not ascend to high, about 1-2 feet will do just fine.
• When the helicopter hovers, VERY gently use the aileron OR elevator - land if you get uncomfortable.
• Land immediately if you get uncomfortable.
• Do not stress the first hover, your brain WILL get tired - take some breaks

Have a look at my take-off, hovering and landing below. Notice that the nose is facing away the whole time - this way of flying is called "tail in hovering". The reason I fly this way is because e.g. I were to rudder the helicopter 90° - all the controls will also turn 90°. So the first flights we ONLY FLY TAIL IN. Notice also how much I have to work the right stick - a 4-channel heli will not need this much work, but some. Notice also the altitude - not very high - this is to save the model if I should panic.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dI9Funl_YV4

Trimming

Good luck on your first hover! Should you wish more insight before trying your first hover, read part 3!

Notice! If you are learning to fly, but have a 6-channel helicopter (e.g. 450 size or larger), I advise not to attempt your first flight before reading part 3 as well as part 2.

Part 3 - Some technical insight

• Two extra channels
• Pitch
• Fixed pitch vs. Collective pitch
• Gyro
• Flying a CP helicopter

This part is educational for everyone, including those who followed my recommendation and got a 4-channel helicopter - but it is an important read for those who has skipped the 4-channel and went straight ahead and got a 6-channel.

Two extra channels

As we already know, the first 4 channels are: Throttle - Rudder - Aileron - Elevator. On a 6-channel there is (obviously) 2 extra channels. These are: Pitch - Gyro. The last channel, the gyro, may also be referred to as the "gear-channel" (I will refer to it as the gyro-channel from this point).

Pitch

Pitch, along with throttle, enables the helicopter to ascend or descend. It also makes a helicopter capable of flying up side down (the standard term is "inverted").

The pitch controls the angle of the main blades. Pitch is controlled by the left stick with vertical movement. Tilting the stick forwards results in positive pitch - tilting the stick backwards results in negative pitch.

This is a swashplate. It's what makes the helicopter able to maneuver in the air. That's all we need to know for now.



In the video below we will have a look at how the swashplate is able to change the main blades pitch (the angle). Notice the left stick movement on the radio translating into movement in the mechanics of the helicopter. Do not over think this, just look at how the blades change pitch.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W3ymzfi ... e=youtu.be

I am not going into any further detail about this for now, but you should note that the exact term for whats happening is; "collective pitch". Just remember, even though we say the 5th channel is named pitch, the left sticks job is managing collective pitch (in addition to throttle and rudder).

Fixed pitch (4-channel) vs Collective pitch (6-channel)

By now may have figured out that a 4-channel helicopter is not able to change it's collective pitch. The 4-channel helicopter has asymmetrical blades, while the 6-channel has symmetrical blades. The 4-channel relies on rotor speed to ascend or descend, while the 6-channel relies on a combination of throttle and blade pitch.

Because the 4-channel does not have variable pitch - we call these helicopters; fixed pitch helicopters, or FP helis
Because the 6-channel does have variable pitch - we call these helicopters; collective pitch helicopters, or CP helis

From this point on I will use the two above mentioned terms.

Gyro

The last channel on a 6-channel helicopter is the gyro-channel. This channel is not controlled by any of the sticks in the radio, but by a particular setting found in the radios menus. Gyro is short for gyroscope.

A gyroscope is a device which is able to keep track of orientations (the gyro device is located on the helicopter). In this particular case, the gyro in question is the tail gyro. The tail gyro is able to keep the helicopters nose, or tail if you will, pointing in the same direction all the time - something called "heading hold".

Very roughly explained: The gyro has adjustable sensitivity, which enables the pilot to tell the helicopter "how hard" the heli is going to keep the heading while in flight.

We'll learn more about tail gyros and gyros in general later on.

Flying a CP helicopter

Compared to flying a FP heli, a CP heli will be a lot more sensitive on the sticks. A FP heli is usually more "dumbed down", less settings to set and the flybar is usually heavy - making the helicopter stable and docile.

If you skipped getting a FP heli, and also skipped getting a simulator, you should proceed with caution. I strongly recommend having an experienced pilot help you fly your CP heli for the first time. You should get yourself a training gear, this can reduce the chance of tipping over. You must get to know and understand your radio.

As you might have picked up, I do not recommend starting off with a CP heli. In my opinion, CP helis are for when you want to advance in the hobby, not to start out with.

Be careful.
Be safe.
Good luck.

Part 4 - About the transmitter and helicopter mechanics

By this point, those learning to hover your FP-heli should keep practicing. But when you are ready to fly on a simulator or have purchased your first CP-heli - come back and read this part. Those with simulators and/or CP-helis, you are now going to learn about the radio - which is essential for flying a real CP heli and setting up a simulator properly.

Summary

Let's just take a quick look at what we already know:

Left stick, vertical movement = collective pitch and throttle
Left stick, horizontal movement = rudder
Right stick, vertical movement = elevator
Right stick, horizontal movement = aileron
Adjusting the gyro settings = in the transmitters menus

How it works

We looked at a swashplate in part 3, now let's find out how it works. As we already know, the transmitter uses six different channels to "talk" to the helicopter. The helicopter has a receiver unit on board, this unit manages the helicopters mechanics.

Let's break it down:

The pilot controls the transmitter



The transmitter transmits signals to the receiver



The receiver is located on the helicopter



In this video I will show you where a receiver might be placed on a helicopter. It's important that you understand that this is a 3D rendering, so there are no wires visible as there would be in real life. You should also note that receivers comes in all shapes and sizes and may be placed on different locations on a helicopter depending on it's size. We are looking at the flat little black box placed inside the helicopter.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lW88lRZgS84

In part 3 we looked at how the swashplate works when "commanded" to change the collective pitch. We're now going to take a brief look at how it works when aileron and elevator also is manipulated. Watch the sticks move on the transmitter to the right. Makes sure to observe how the main blades are moving in relation to the swashplate. Again, don't over think this - we're just watching video for now.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jtRfJcCRuyQ

As you probably figured out by now, the swashplate is not being moved by magic - but by something called a servo. The servo is really just a small motor with a shaft sticking out. The servos shaft is connected with linkages to the swashplate. So the servo is what's moving the swashplate - three servos actually. Look at the video; the servo is the red box mounted to the helicopter, notice how the servo moves the linkages when the stick is moved.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QTwc7MR ... e=youtu.be

So, the receiver controls the servos



As you saw in the video, there are three linkages connected to the swashplate - so three servos in total. And, as we have seen before, when using the left stick only (pitch channel) all three servos work together - either raising or lowering the swash. So they work collectively - ergo collective pitch



There is also one servo controlling the rudder. Have a look at how the rudder servo controls the pitch of the tail blades.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IYnTe54 ... e=youtu.be

Take some time and look at the illustration below.



On the illustration you saw what each of the six channels do and what part on the helicopter they control.

Let's recap:

• The transmitter talks with the receiver via six channels
• The receiver manages six devices on the helicopter
• Three channels are used to control three servos - these manage the swashplate
• One channel is used to control the rudder servo
• One channel is used to control the throttle
• One channel is used to control the gyro

The swash

blablabla

work in progress, plz don't comment (comments will get deleted, send me a PM instead) - thanks!